Tags
architecture, David Chipperfield, exhibition, Helen Frankenthaler, J M W Turner, Margate, Maxwell Fry, place, poetry, psychogeography, seaside, T S Eliot, walking
A sunny day, a £10 day return train offer and the lure of the seaside combined with some art, seemed the perfect opportunity to finally revisit Margate. The train offer included the high-speed train from St Pancras, HS1, which we had not been on as it is normally premium rate, and so we began with the still exciting anticipation that being in the vicinity of Eurostar gives. The journey gave glimpses of delights en route, including Rainham Marshes, the RSPB flagship ‘London’ site on the Essex shoreline, and Ebbsfleet (what happened to the sculpture proposals?), but after Ashford International we were back on the slow line for the rest of the journey.
In spite of the Welcome to Dreamland sign greeting us through the train window, the first sight of Margate is not endearing. Undaunted we head for our first goal, the new(ish) Turner Contemporary Art Gallery with eyes open en route.
The restoration of Dreamland Amusement Park, one of the glories of British seaside architecture is alas so far still a dream, in spite of Wayne Hemingway’s best efforts. The revivals of the De La Warr Pavilion in Bexhill and the Midland Hotel in Morecambe have shown what is possible (as can be seen on the blog Under a Grey Sky here).
First mention of Turner, who did make frequent visits here in the 1820s and 1830s, comes in the approach to the gallery, rapidly followed by what from the distance did look like a large shed but turns out to be a very successful example of minimalism. Designed by David Chipperfield Architects and opened in 2011, it was yet another project hoping to restore Margate’s fortunes. It has certainly been successful as a gallery but how much of the ripple effect there has been yet is debatable.
Making Painting is the current exhibition, a brilliant pairing of J M W Turner and the American Abstract Expressionist Helen Frankenthaler. There is a review with many images on Frames of Reference, the Rowley Gallery blog.
We turn our backs to the now visible sands, site of the first use of beach donkeys in about 1780, and the first use of the beach deck chair in 1898, and go in search of the old town.
After a visit to the Shell Grotto (another post to follow) we go to find the intriguing building we saw towering in the distance from the train on our way in. This turns out to be a vast and extraordinary pub called The Man of Kent, in spite of the oriental decoration, which is also for sale. As my companion is indeed a Man of Kent this seems an augur of some kind.
Our time is running out and we find our way back to the station. As I belatedly read my Discover Margate, the original seaside leaflet I realize I have forgotten to make an intended pilgrimage to the Nayland Rock Shelter, now a listed building, where T S Eliot composed much of The Waste Land including the apposite lines
“On Margate Sands
I can connect
Nothing with nothing”
I also read that the station, dated 1926, is the first major building by Maxwell Fry, the (later) modernist architect of the Sun House in Hampstead, London and (with Walter Gropius) Impington Village College in Cambridge.
With a final view of Dreamland as it still is maybe there are reasons to return again.
dianajhale 
Interesting post, Diana. Foreign territory to me but I was aware of the art and a Tracey Emin connection. Every slightly run-down seaside resort seems to have its own dreamland.
Always interesting to read others’ impressions of the town where I lived during the 90s. These days I go back not all that often and it has to be said the sense of decay gets just that bit more palpable every time. But even so, Margate has much to recommend it — whether a whole town’s economic recovery can be based on “vintage” shops and cupcakes just over the road from the Turner gallery in the Old Town is a matter of debate, but it’s very pleasant indeed on a sunny morning, with many interesting nooks and crannies to be discovered. The beaches are superb and stretch for miles, the revamped harbour wall has a buzz to it with its shops and cafes (there was nothing at all there in my time), Hawley Square has some very charming, well-maintained Georgian houses. For an overnight stay, Margate is great.
Pingback: Essex Girl and Man of Kent looking for Dreamla...
Nice post. There’s a film (Last Resort) featuring Paddy Considine in which Margate is the setting and that imposing tower block by the station features heavily. Well worth a watch.
Postscript! [blush]
JB Priestley’s Postcript, broadcast 14 July 1940, describes his visit to wartime Margate – the ominous, spectral silence in contrast to the noise of a usual peacetime summer’s day, “all that perspiring, bustling, rowdy, riotous holiday-making”.
Dreamland seemed a sad reminder of bygone daytrips on wet weekends, I wondered if Joni Mitchell knew it but guessed she was thinking of somewhere else. I thought it was just an amusement arcade of one-armed bandits, I didn’t realise there was a whole park behind it. Good luck to Wayne Hemingway. I also didn’t know about the Shell Grotto. The drains were not working when we visited and the place smelled bad. We were not tempted to stay too long. I wonder if The Man of Kent has a sister pub in Southend called The Essex Girl?
‘Do we end in Dreamland, in the dark?’ A quotation from Dylan Thomas’s script on Margate, reproduced in ON THE AIR WITH DYLAN THOMAS: THE BROADCASTS, edited by Ralph Maud (New Directions)
Interesting I also visited Margate last week. Very much enjoyed reading the account of your visit. I saw the same exhibition but wasn’t that impressed with the Helen Frankenthaler.
Great to hear about a resort I know very little about. Thanks!
Another delightful visit, Diana, to a place I would not ever glimpse if it were not for your essay and your photos. Thanks, again.
Karen
As usual I enjoyed vicariously joining you on your travels! I’ve always had a weakness for out-of-fashion and out-of-season seaside resorts, and Turner is one of my favourite artists (the museum where I work even has a few of his Margate watercolours), so I really ought to go there myself…
It would be interesting to see what happens if/when Dreamland is restored. I agree with you that the De La Warr Pavilion is a brilliant example of such a revival so it would be nice if something similar could be accomplished here.
Really interesting post Diana. Like the juxtapositions of Turner’s name on a pub blackboard and ‘Man of Kent’ with oriental detail. Pity you missed the Nayland Rock Shelter. All sorts of histories still hanging in there including the social history of the British seaside. Never been but sense it would be an interesting visit.
Lovely post – very evocative of the strangeness and mix that is Margate (which your photographs capture very well) and a good reminder that I must visit it again.
Comment on Turner: I was completely blown away the first time I saw Turner’s paintings. The energy was palpable.
Hi. I love the photo of the steps leading to the sea. Jane